Pattern-making Grading Digitising Sample-making

Margueritte Couture is a Brussels based pattern maker and prototyper for womenswear. With years of experience in Belgium's textile industry we have built a reputation for accuracy and efficiency along with extensive technical knowledge. Margueritte Couture offers a full range of services:

  1. Pattern making
  2. Pattern grading
  3. Production marker making
  4. Paper pattern digitizing
  5. Prototyping / sample making
  6. Production of small series
  7. Embroidery services

Our expertise range from tops, skirts, shirts, dresses & pants patterns to complex jackets & coats patterns. From a single garment to a complete range of clothing patterns in multiple sizes, we're up for the job. Our attention to details, precision and quality mindset guarantees a top service.

Contact us to discuss your project at 0032 475 42 48 22, or complete the contact form below. Do not hesitate to call if you are based overseas.

 

Contact Margueritte Couture via online form.

 

Services

Pattern Making

Margueritte Couture specialises in computer generated patterns. We are also capable of creating paper patterns and then digitizing them. The process is the following:

  1. Contact or call us with your ideas - we are up to any challenge!
  2. Meet in the Brussels based studio to discuss your projects. We can create precise clothing patterns from samples, pictures or/and sketches
  3. Offer quote
  4. Getting the work done and delivering a paper pattern or digital files directly to your manufacturers. Supported outputs: Assyst, Lectra, Gerber and Investronica.

Our expertise covers all categories of women's wear: tops, blouses, shirts, dresses, skirts, pants, jeans, jackets, coats, accessories, etc. Our pattern makers can also draft complex patterns for specific designs. Note: we do not pattern make men's tailoring.

Pattern Grading

Computer generated graded sets can be printed or hand cut and then supplied on paper. We can also email patterns in digital format directly to off-shore manufacturers and clients. Supported outputs: Assyst, Lectra, Gerber, and Investronica.

cad-assyst-gradation

Production Marker Making

We use the Assyst system to create efficient, accurate markers with economical yields.

Paper Patterns Digitizing

We use a digitizing tablet to convert a paper pattern into a digital one that can be adapted, graded or exported to Assyst, Lectra, Gerber, Investronica format.

Prototyping / Sample Making

The next step after the patterns are ready is to see the model in 3D. It is for this reason that we offer a sample making service first in an ordinary fabric and then in the chosen fabric. After this step, the pattern can be altered again or can go directly to pattern grading.

margueritte-couture-atelier-prototypage

Production of Small Series

In addition to prototyping / sample making, we work with a network of sewing machinists to produce your collection in one or few sizes. We only service small production batches up to 50 pieces of garment.

Embroidery Execution or Digitizing Service

We can embroide on a range of fabrics. You can come with your design in a digital format and we can convert it to a file accepted by our machines. Additionnally, we can digitize an embroidery design, such as a logo, from a good quality photo.

margueritte-couture-atelier-prototypage

How does the studio Margueritte Couture work?

To create a collection, we start from the designs of the designer, the technical spec sheet and your explanations. Once the choice for the designs is made, the process is the following:

  1. Creation of the base patterns
  2. Fitting of one or two prototypes
  3. Alteration of the base patterns following the fittings
  4. Confection of the prototype from the chosen fabric
  5. Final adjustments to the prototype
  6. Grading is also recommended in a later stage (needed to create patterns for the different sizes).
  7. Production of small series

Frequently Asked Questions FAQ:

Equipment

Margueritte Couture is based in Brussels, at 10' by car from the international train station Gare du Midi. See the Contact page.

We are equipped with the following:

  • Digital patternmaking software CAD Assyst / Lay Assyst Plus; supported output files: Assyst, Lectra, Gerber, Investronica
  • Plotter A0 for printing
  • Digitising tablet to convert a paper pattern into a digital one
  • 2 industrial sewing machines
  • Digital embroidery machine
  • Software to create / convert an embroidery design
  • Triplock
  • Button maker

How do I realize my collection? What do I need?

1. Preparation

Decide how you feel comfortable working:

  1. You design (draw) the model and leave everything else to the us and your manufacturer.
  2. You design, realize the first pattern yourself, we digitize it, grade it and then send it to the manufacturer and realize the prototypes.
  3. You design, realize the first pattern and prototype yourself and leave the rest to the manufacturer.

Considerations:

  1. Option 1: time factor is very important; you have to secure your manufacturer well in advance. We recommend at least 6 months in advance of your collection presentation date. Your vision of the final garment and that of your manufacturer may diverge, so a lot of dialogue, trials and negotiation must take place.
  2. Option 2: having the pattern ready already creates a better foundation to start from. The manufacturer can already tell you faster what is feasible and for which price.
  3. Option 3: it's the fastest way to see your collection manufactured. You might still need to modify or simplify some of the features depending on what is feasible for your manufacturer.
2. Timing

Prospect well in advance the manufacturers: price, quality, capacity, and delivery timelines. Keep in mind: the manufacturer has also other orders ongoing. You are not the only one. Bear in mind the peak times, when manufacturers are typically very busy. You want to find your manufacturer well before:

  1. Spring - Summer collection (November - February)
  2. Autumn - Winter collection (June - August)

Therefore, start as soon as possible as the "First In" are better served.

You can also decide to phase your collection, on a time sliding basis, meaning: create a few prototypes in a first phase, then another in a later one and so on. This has the advantage that you and your manufacturer get to know each other better and both adapt for the following phase. It also brings less risk to the manufacturing of your collection.

3. How to better communicate your intention as a designer?

Use clear sketches and technical specification sheets. Really, put your time into those. The time you invest in clarifying what you want will pay off as a high-quality prototype.

4. Adapt your designs

Well, suppose you did all the things above correctly. Your design is great and the spec sheet is flawless. What about the feasibility of your design and the cost to prototype or manufacture it? Be ready to make some concessions if you want to keep the costs to an acceptable level. Without being exhaustive, here are a few elements that will add to the production cost:

  • Different types of fabrics to be assembled together
  • Additional Lining
  • Number of pockets, buttons
  • Applied accessories
  • Special type of seams
  • The workability of the fabric (e.g. leather vs. cotton or wool)
  • Can it be assembled with a machine or it requires manual intervention?
  • Fabric design and assembly points (a checkered design fabric requires more cutting and assembly time and even more fabric)
  • Your design is easily adjustable or requires redrawing and even a new pattern?
5. Additional points

There are some other things you have to foresee as a designer:

  • A sufficient quantity of accessories and labels.
  • Contractual dates (if you deliver late the fabrics, your collection will be late, simple as that).
  • Communicate often and clearly with your manufacturer.

Can you just prototype or is there a minimum quantity you require for production?

The good news is that we do not impose you a minimum quantity, the minimum quantity is from 1 prototype per design. Of course, you will realize economies (time and money), if we can also manufacture a small series.

How much will the collection cost me?

It is very difficult to advance a price without seeing the designs, their complexity and the fabrics. I propose to meet and discuss your project (you can use the below Contact form). I advise you to bring along for the meeting the designs and samples of the fabric. After the meeting, I will establish an offer and the price for the work that will be performed.

How much time do you need to realize a small series?

The sooner you let us know, the better. It is subject to planning the capacity.

What are your references?

Our portfolio of clients consists of well-known fashion houses and young creators in Belgium starting up their first collection. Therefore we have experience with a large range of fabrics, very exigent quality criteria and tight deadlines. Written recommendations from our clients are available on demand. NATAN is one of the established names in fashion in Belgium, offering six clothing lines and made-to-mesure services to a range of private clients.